Martinique
Saturday, December 26th, 2009John visited the chandlers (poor credit card) in the marina to buy a new battery for the house set. However they did not have the required size and told him we would get one in Martinique. That decided us that we needed to go over and get one poste haste.
Liz and Robert were quite happy to set out again so we got ourselves organised and departed Rodney Bay for a few days. We had a great sail both there and back but I think we were also surprised how quickly we had to get back into Atlantic mode again. There was swell (but very little by comparison to what we had experienced). There are acceleration zones between the islands so there were bits of the journey where the wind strength increased by 10+ knots which meant that when we still needed to hang on as we went below etc.
The journey to Fort de France took around 4 hours and we arrived around 4.30p.m. Customs and immigration closed at 5.30 so it was going to be tight but we should just have made it. After dropping anchor alongside an old fort (there’s a surprise) they hopped into the dinghy and went ashore to declare our arrival. They were open but said that clearance would take longer than they would be remaining open for – try again tomorrow! Well we have learnt that you do not argue with any official people re immigration so John duly headed back out to the boat and we had to stay on board till next morning.
It was fine as after tea on deck , a live band began to play on the waterfront. This meant we were entertained right up and beyond bedtime!!!
Next day paperwork completed we all piled ashore to explore the main city of Martinique. It was really different, very French, fairly friendly and helpful folk and non threatening to walk about. We hit the jackpot when we discovered a Carrefour supermarket in an air conditioned shopping mall. (I didn’t want to leave – first time I’ve been cool since we got here!) Liz and Robert had to visit a local doctor as she was suffering a really bad allergic reaction to some messy mozi bites. That in itself was an experience. Robert reckoned the place should have been condemned- however the doctor was very helpful and sent her on her way with lots of pills and potions. Glad to report she is greatly improved.
We left Fort de France at lunchtime and headed to a little bay we had spotted on the way over. We had to motor as the wind had died, just as well really as the large bay of Fort de France is strewn with endless lines attached to water/juice bottles, barely visible above water level. They are worse than the ones down the Portuguese coast. Anyway fortunately we didn’t snag anyon the way out. We entered the bay at Anse D’Arlet, dropped the hook and went for a swim in the most beautiful clear turquoise water so far. Went ashore to explore and found very little. There were a few guys selling cakes and fruit on the waterfront, a church and a little beach bar. The other places were closed. However it appeared we were to be treated to yet another live concert that evening as there was a bandstand set up beside the church. There was us thinking it would be a quiet night!
We decided to watch the sun go down over the bay (rum punch in hand). It was quite stunning as there were palm trees and shimmering water as a backdrop for it. Then back to the boat to listen to the concert. It was not very well attended as we watched from the boat with only some 30 – 40 folk swaying to the music. There was a mixture of Caribbean carols and folksy tunes as well as the usual salsa reggae stuff that constantly assails your ears wherever you are.
Next morning we celebrated a birthday on board before we had a great sail back over to Rodney Bay. The boat topped over 8 knots with main and gib and she just creamed along – fandabbydozy! Safely tied up we headed out for a bite of lunch (this is usually about 3.00 in the afternoon) to Cafe Ole. We had been put on to another pontoon this time at the opposite end of the marina. This meant we didn’t have a card for the door. Having locked up the boat and headed over John was duly sent back to get the key. When he got back to us he announced he had managed to lck the boat key inside the boat and we were locked out! (Well he is getting on in years so I suppose we have to make allowances). Anyway he went to the chandlers and asked if they would lend him some bolt cutters to get in to his boat – surprisingly enough they said NO! Another couple we know were sitting in the cafe and heard the story and offered us a hacksaw. So Liz and I went to get it from them and the lads went the internet cafe (don’t ask why). Liz and I began to saw through the padlock . Quickly realised we were likely to there the next day at the rte we were going. She decided to go and recruit help from elsewhere. Back she came with a pair of bolt cutters that had her staggering under their weight. Finally figured that if we took a handle each we could prise them open. Between us we managed to clamp them to the lock and began to squeeze. It then just got farcical and I got a dose of the giggles and, so did she . ‘Enough’ she declared we need a strong man (well ours were nowhere to be seen) so she got of the boat and came back with a very large, happy Caribbean chappie. He took his shoes of and came onboard and after a couple of squeezes had the lock split open. Effusive thanks from both of us and he was gone just as John and Robert arrived back – what can one say! The worrying part of it all was that no-one asked any questions as to why we wanted the cutters and were we really breaking into a boat???
Alls well that ends well fortunately. We celebrated with some bubbles – well it was John’s birthday and then headed out for a farewell meal with Robert and Liz to the Bosun’s.