Now this is more like it!! Sitting under the bimini in a shady 29 degrees at 38 41 58 N 09 24 84W in a very plush (read expensive) marina. It is just outside Lisbon. The washing is strewn across all the rigging as I develop long lost skills of washing clothes in buckets and John and I working out a neat wringing action between us.

We have had an eventful time since leaving La Corunna. We did an overnight sail to Bayonne which in light of other night passages was just lovely. Established 3 hour shifts and those off watch actually managed to get some sleep. The sails were up throughout and the moon and the stars lit our passage. We arrived in Bayonna just at first light. Quite glad about this as there were some very interesting rocks around. The consensus was that it was the first decent sail we have had in ages. 7knots on a beam reach. Decided against going in to the marina so went to bay opposite called Panjon. Anchoring is so much simplar especially with good holding. We slept till the heat onboard wakened us. Decided to do some exploring ashore so got organised to go. Doug had commented on a couple of sea kayaks who were enjoying a paddle. Duly onboard the dinghy we set of to negotiate the mass of fishing boats and buoys. The sea kayaks in the meantime had lingered behind our boat. Fishy – naw they would just be having a rest! Got to the shore and they were still resting so John and Doug got back in the dinghy and headed back out to the boat. Lo and behold the boys were up the boarding ladder, so intent that they didn’t even hear the guys coming. When challenged they had the audacity to say the were looking after it for them. Needless to say some good Scots comments were made and they disembarked. However as Doug and John sat around waiting for them to move on they linger in and around for ages. Eventually they left and the guys joined Dorothy and I ashore. Made us think though – we thought we were safer at anchor! Dorothy and I had of course sourced some delicious heladaria so that solved the stress of the evnt.

Left early next day as a long passage was order of day. We were heading out of the bay in quite strong winds and fairly confused seas. Liz on the helm was suddenly and with little warning deluged by a rogue wave and therefore had a somewhat bracing early morning shower!
The wind was cold and the seas uncomfortable so we changed from the 220 course to 150 which made it more comfortable. By lunchtime (2 – 3 in afternoon) we had to gybe. Had another great sail all the way to Leixios. Just outside the breakwater a bit of a katabatic effect sprung up and we were screeching in to the harbour. Berthing here was fun. This was our first Portuguese port so we couldn’t land officially until John had done the paperwork. Wind however had other ideas. Two guys at the arrivals pontoon waved us up the marina to a berth. However there was a big metal pole that took a shine to our bowsprit. Lots of shouting, gesticulations and about 6 pairs of hands averted a near crunch. Once safely attached we got back on board and did the offfical bit. The wind continued to howl for several hours after that. Dorothy and I made an executive decision that tonight the kitchen was shut. We went ashore and found a lovely eaterie called restuarant quince (15). Have discovered that not only is red Dao delicious but that they do a lovely crisp white Dao which washed the salty fish dishes down perfectly! The food and service were excellent and the evening was complete with a walk along a lovely promenade to see the sun set. (now it feels good)

The next morning brought a flat calm so the departure was quiet and unnoticed (thank goodness) Another long day was on the cards, the destination being
Figueira da foz 40 08 59N 08 52 41 W

The winds were light and coming from a good angle for the guys to play with the new toy. Actually astonished that it hasn’t been out of its bag before now. The cruising chute was hoisted about 11.00 on 10.08.09 for the first time. It looked absolutely fab and has a good shape. Went out of the snuffer smooth as silk and its blue with the saltire front looked really good against the clear sky. Almost got homesick. It was up for a couple of hours and then the wind dropped and changed direction so the engine had to go on. However it was up and down several times throughout the journey and at times we were getting just under 9 knots. Needless to say John and Doug were grinning from ear to ear. Funny how when it comes to a time consuming job like fitting a cruising chute there are no problems but other mundane chores don’t raise a smile!

We got in to Figueres just before they shut. Had to stop on the quay and present ourselves to the coastguard before being allowed to berth. All safely tied up. fed and watered we headed ashore to explore the town a little. It was a very pretty place and the bars, cafes and street sellers only enhanced first impressions. We decided that we would linger there in the morning and see it better in the daylight and if need be we would do another overnight passage to catch up.

In the morning Doug and Dorothy went of for their power walk/explore. John and I found the local indoor market and had fun buying fresh supplies. It was a wonderful study of a different culture and way of life. Its a bit like the Broons go shopping. They are all their making the decisions about what to buy. Baby buggies are a real hazard – the baby may look angelica and you are cooing away – but mum or dad is a demon to the ankles of the casual passerby!

Anyway after the stress of this eventful shopping spree we relaxed at the cafe and did what the locals appear to do – nothing!

Lunch aboard and we dropped the lines ready for another sail? The reason we waitied till after lunch was that the weather pattern seems to be – no wind overnight/early morning and then kicking in just after 12. It then blows till about 4 lulls again before kicking in around 6 and blowing strong till about 10.00. This has been good as it has allowed us to have time ashore that early on we wouldn’t have done. Alas this time we were not so lucky. The wind allowed us to cream along at over 7knots initially and we covered the first 30 miles in no time. Then it dropped and the point of motoring was really uncomfortable – the quease was back with vengence. This was no good as we had bought a kilo of gambas for tea! Captain John was given a stern warning that something had to change – namely the course. This duly done Dorothy and I donned our pinnies and produced yet another Micehlin 5 star concoction. The guys went below to do some nav work and Dorothy and I did the watch. The fishing pots were a bit a nightmare. They were strung all over the place in no real pattern. Difficult to see as they had black bases and only a scrap of white attached to a stick. Anyway we missed them while we could see them. We had seen quite a few boats heading north throughout the day but out of nowhere one decided to come close enough to chat. Evading action duly taken but we found ourselves commenting on the fact that there is all this ocean and yet 2 tiny boats managed to nearly meet.

Sunset meant time for the watches to be set up. Doug and Dorothy did 11 – 2, we did 2 – 5. They got the lovely sunset and moon and stars, as well as being buzzed by the coastguard, we got thick fog and dolphins. The coastguard came very close with their searchlights and circled round and round before eventually just leaving. They didn’t call us up on the radio or anything but it was intimidating. However just held our course and got on with it. Presumably once they got the boat name and called it up on line they knew we weren’t smugglers, pirates or any other dubious souls! The fog was a worry but the dolphins kept distracting us as they swam and dived alongside us. We were only about 3 miles offshore but we couldn’t even see a huge headland lights which is normally visible up to 8 miles away and stands 176 metres. Fortunately just as we were beginning to think the instruments were perhaps playing up the fog began to lift as the inshore breeze picked up. A light was spotted and from there we headed safely in to Cascais just as the dawn was breaking. Just as well as the entrance was filled with boats/tankers and a cruise liner, not mention the usual haul of fishing vessels and rogue nets.

The marina here is huge and most of the berths empty. Not surprising as at £50 a night you wouldn’t want to linger. They boat boys who help guide you to your berth actually wear white gloves as they take your lines! Again you have to go through the rigmarole of arrival paperwork. We got in at 7.00 and the guy said we’d have to wait there till 9.00 when they opened. John politely told him we were going to sleep anyway. We didn’t waken till after 10.00 as straining to see in fog really took it out of us. As we waited for John to come back a nice young man appeared asking if we were the people who had problems with their fish finder. Well what can we say. No but we do have a problem with our radar. Lovely man, excellent English gave us the name of a contact in Lagos. he would have sorted it but we would have to stay longer and that of course isn’t an option. He has the part we need and thinks he may have a bit to sort the cockpit screen too. He gave us the number to call in Lagos so hopefully that will be a resolution to the issue.

Cascais: Is just gorgeous. The architecture throughout the places we have visited on this coastline is a mixture of moorish fortifications, disneyland turrets and 60 – 70 breeze block. The countryside is lush and colourful with lots of purple and pinks everywhere. However Cascais is just a stones throw from Lisbon itself. We took a train in and became tourists for the day. Did the open top bus tour as there would not be enough time to figure out how to get round all the attractions in the very limited time frame. Again the architecture was quite stunning in places. Some of the palaces, churches and government buildings are beautiful. The day was finished with a large Sagres in a sheltered street cafe. We all decided that a train commute back to Cascais on a daily basis would not be too much of a hardship, especially when there was still time for an hour on the beach before tea.

Today we all went for a swim at the little beach close by. the water was a bit dodgy and it did say it wasn’t suitable for swimming but we went in. Mad Scots – should have known when the locals weren’t in there was a reason – it was baltic. Dorothy took the full plunge and eventually so did Doug and I. John however was more reluctant and did not linger long. So as we sit watching the washing dry and doing this life is pretty damn fine.

Today we are due to head south to Sines and with little prospect of wind a motor will be the order of the day. This will be a short day as it is only 50 plus miles. Hopefully all being well we will be in Lagos by the weekend.