Archive for the ‘Cruising’ Category

Trini Tourist Trails

Monday, June 28th, 2010

So having cleared our feet of the heavy cleaning programme with a few days to spare before haul out we have been getting round the northwest part of the island.

Our fellow travellers from Grenada have now all departed and have been in touch to say they are safe home in their respective countries. We thought that life would then become very quiet but have been proved wrong yet again. We have met a lovely couple, Connie and Ralph from San Diego, who are very seasoned travellers. They have been sailing for the last 40 years having built the boat themselves.
They have lots of fascinating tales to tell and lots of recommendations as to options we should perhaps consider for the future. Anyway they have a car while they are here and were kind enough to ask to join them on some their outings.
Never been one to look a gift horse in the mouth we willing agreed.

Chaguaramus National Park: This is a beautiful area not far from the marina. It is a huge reserve which has an 18 hole golf course and lots of interesting trails up through the mountains, not to mention a big waterfall. There is also a lovely bay which is very popular with the locals.

We drove into the park and turned into a trail which was signposted ‘Bamboo Cathedral’. After donning our trekking shoes we headed up the trail and after a half mile or so were treated to a spectacular archway of bamboo. The plants must have been very old as they were huge and about a 100 feet high. They overhung each other from opposite sides of the road and intertwined just like the beams of a cathedral. Apparently locals hold weddings underneath it. Ralph suggested that we should keep on hiking up the track and head for the tracking station.

As we headed up the hill we spotted lots of interesting wildlife. There were quite a few beautiful royal blue butterflies and lizards. There were chaconia, flamboyants, in bloom and lots of sensitive plants around as well as lianas (for any would be Tarzan!). It was a twisty trail and seemed never ending as we kept climbing up, ever hopeful of a clear view of the Gulf of Paria and Venezuela.

We had decided to go just one more bend and then turn back as we were flagging in the heat. So glad we did as there was a huge building and huge satellite tracking dish – relics from the 50’s and just perfect for a scene from a James Bond movie. The place was derelict and had been stripped of all the equipment etc. Anyway we had an explore before heading back down the hill to the car and the air con!! The area would be great to cycle round so we may look for a bike hire outlet and do that on another occasion.

Lopinot – Cocoa Plantation

This was billed as a tourist attraction. It was an old colonial style house, owned by a Frenchman, Lt.Gen. Comte Charles de Lopinot , who had been granted the land (by the English king) at the end of his honourable military service. (He apparently swapped sides several times but they didn’t hold it against him). He discovered the land (La Reconnaissance – 478 acres) when he was on a campaign and requested it. Having brought his 100 loyal slaves (ahem!) with him he settled the land and turned it into quite a successful cocoa plantation. Today it is state owned and popular with locals who visit the well laid out grounds at weekends.

Ralph is a very good driver and copes wonderfully well with the local traffic (pretty nail biting stuff at times), not to mention the single track roads which are very twisty. It reminded us of heading up to Arisaig on the old road but without the passing places. Anyway he got us there safely and the scenery was just beautiful as we climbed quite deep into the mountain.

Stepping out of the car at the site was wonderful. There were lovely bungalows, with well looked after gardens and a sense of serenity around the place that was contagious.

Unfortunately when we got to the house it was closed for renovation! The house walls are bending outwards under the strain of a slate roof it was never designed to carry!!!) We were having a look around when a gentleman named Logan appeared and offered to let us see the contents of the house which were in storage. He then showed us round the grounds and gave us the history of the place. Just as we were leaving the official guide arrived. Logan informed us that this was the man who could play the instruments we had seen in the storehouse. Nothing daunted the older man goes into a wardrobe and brings out a Quatro that resembled a banjo/guitar/ukelele but was of Venezuelan origin. He gave John a set of maracas and Connie a block and stick to beat out a rhythm. Logan pulled a box from the corner and turned it into a base like my brother used to play in his skiffle group. There followed an impromptu music session. Drawn by the music another local guy appeared and took over the maracas. They played and sang for about 20 minutes – lots of toe tapping stuff – even La Bamba!. It was surreal and a lot of fun.

Logan had told us about a church which had been brought brick by brick from another valley as well as some caves that we should visit. So having said our farewells and thanks to these delightful local folk we headed away in search of them. Having found them, we then headed back down and came home via the savannah. Reminded us of the salt flats at Kincardine/Larbert.

A great time had by one and all.

Yesterday we visited a monastery up yet another mountainside.
You will have gathered by now that this part of Trini has a lot of
Hills with abundant forests on them. The road to the monastery was yet another twisty affair, although not nearly as taxing as the one to the plantation. The monastery covers a large area of land and has several buildings as well as the abbey. There is a retreat, a rehab centre, a yoghurt making plant, souvenir shop and confessionals. The abbey is quite modern. It was built about a 100 years ago . It is dedicated to St Benedict and is quite large. There were a lot of local people visiting when we were there. The views are terrific across the savannah and you can see for many miles in all directions.

We ended the trip with a visit to yet another Chinese. They are great and very reasonable. We have had quite a few now and are thinking about starting up a points system to find the best.

Today is Sunday and it is St Peter’s day – another holiday. As a result all the shops and restaurants are closed. Today the local fishermen celebrate. This involves closing of the main road to Chagauramus at a point known as the Carenage. This is where the local fisherman live and socialise. The party started yesterday but is in earnest today. Apparently it is very loud, boozy affair with a lot of ‘liming’ and ‘wining’ going on. Even the locals think twice about going to it. This is one party we will give a miss.

So fun and sight- seeing over it is back to deep cleaning of bilges etc (ugh) and the dinghy ahead of stowing it below. All of which justified a swim in the pool and a couple of sundowners with our neighbours.