Robert and Liz arrived as planned on Thursday afternoon in Kinsale. The sun attempted to break through and we went walkabout round town. John and Robert spent a lot of time in the yacht club looking at weather predictions for the next few days. There was much debating and deliberation and it was decided that we would head away mid Saturday afternoon. The winds were south westerly which was a bit a apain but with only a 3 -4 wind strength it was all looking good.
The two Liz’s did the domestic bit and shopped for provisions for next few days. A lot of fun ensued giving the dishes names. Fat Willy casserole can be left to the imagination. Biscay Bombay chicken was deemed delicious once we were berthed in Lorien and the greek stew was lovely as well although Liz M was most unwell after it.
Anyway it was with great cheer we set of for La Corruna – a bit apprehensive as it was a long passage to undertake but deemed to be a dry run for what is ahead of us.
We had barely gotten 100 miles offshore when the weather changed for the worse. John used the sat phone for the first time to contact Vallentia coastguard for a weather update.
By 8.00 p.m. we were in the thick of a gale 8/9 which lasted for 16 hours. A heavily reefed staysail and main allowed to stay upright. Huge seas led to occassional breaking waves across the cockpit (John’s phone no longer works and we don’t recommend baths in cold sea water!)
It was a long and wearisome survival and little sleep waqs had due to the horrendous noise of the wind and the boat hitting waves.
A respite came around Monday lunchtime when a watery sun attempted to cheer the spirits. No-one had managed anything other than cold water. Liz M violently unwell made a great recovery and was back in the fray by then.
Alas it was short lived and we were back in the teeth of another gale 7/8 which lasted another 12 hours, once again overnight and once again very challenging. A pattern was beginning to emerge as once this gale passed we again had some sunshine and a chance to regroup. Around 7.00 that night the navtex began to chatter. It was like something out of Blackadder. The updates went from gales in and around us, to us being in the teeth of yet another one. This was gale 6/7 and lasted for 18 hours. By then we were all struggling from the lack of sleep. Everyone was just fantastic in the way they dug deep, used their experience and will to get through it. However a decision was taken by the guys that with yet another update from the Navtex that yet another gale was brewin where we were heading it was time for an alternative plan.
It was agreed that we should bear away and head east and to give up the steady progress to the west as we could not make Spain before the gale hit us again.
So we headed toward Lorien in France and because we were then running with the wind on the quarter the 35knots didn’t seem quite so horrendous.
At this point we also managed to eat for the hot food as other than bannana and cold water, tins of Fanta and cereal bars we had had nothing. The fat willy casserole was just the ticket.
The detour may seem like a long way round for short cut (i.e. 150 miles the wrong way) but we were beginning to run on empty energy reserves. As it was this took another 15 hours before we were safely tied up in Lorient.
This of course was not before we were turned back by the French Navy. Middle of Biscay there is suddenly a warship travelling towards us at speed. The radio was chattering in French but no-one was paying a lot of attention to it. Next thing the warship was flashing furiously at us. Contact was established on the radio and we were advised we had to turn and head back the way we had come for 30 minutes while they escorted a sub. We did as advised only to then be harried by the sub on the radio. Anyway we got back on course, did another overnight run and by 5 in the morning John and Liz were in the middle of the fishing fleet playing dodge the nets.
The sat phone was used again to contact Neil – talk about phone a friend. He keeps his boat in Lorient and as we had no charts he gave us directions in to the port. Thank goodness as it proved a busy place and would have been more than a little challenging had we done it in the dark.
So that was it an aborted attempt at Spain but just glad to be in and tied up. The boat was amazing given the punding she took. Shge rode the crests of the high rollers beautifully. More than once thankful thoughts were given to the rigger and how proud we were of him and the job he had done.
On arrival we discovered that the bow thruster had taken a hit and so getting berthed was fun but at least there were plenty hands on deck.
Bacon butties and stiff gin and tonics all round followed by a long sleep and we were like four new souls.
The weather has continued to be very windy and showery but I am glad to report that at last the sun is shining. Rob and Liz are away on bikes and John and I doing some basic housekeeping etc before catching them up.
They leave tomorrow and will be sorely missed.
We will be here till Monday or Tuesday as the mother board for the bow thruster has to be sourced from Marseille. The marina staff have been incredibly helpful as were the staff in stores yesterday when Rob and John were trying to get parts.
Lorient itself appears to be a hive of nautical activity and when we were in the main town yesterday the place was buzzing as they are gearing up for the start of the Figaro single handed races.
So we have a week on hand to reach Spain in time to meet up with Doug and Dorothy . Perhaps the Gods will start blowing some gentle North Westerleys our way so we can get there.