Return from Grenada

15th February

We checked the weather and had a chat with John from Amazing Grace about when might be a good time to leave Grenada. Apparently the main issue to departing was going to be a huge swell. Having done enough of that nonsense in the Atlantic we decided to stay on until Monday. It also meant that we could clear customs etc without any hassle.

So after all the formalities had been dealt with we set of from St George’s to get to Carriacou in time for the Carnival preceeding Lent. We had a great sail although at times quite challenging. The swell was still significant but we made good time. However we decided that the wind and swell was significant enough to ensure that we would not have a good night on anchor in Hamilton. We opted to stay in Tyrell Bay and head round there early next morning. Think a lot of the boats had the same idea as there were many of us leaving at the same time. Some opted to drop anchor at the lovely atoll just as you come into the main bay.

16th February

However we reckoned we should just keep going and try and get in to Union Island to do the custom formalities so that we could get to Tobago Cays. The sail was a bit turbulent in bits. The wind was gusting over 30 knots and making headway across the bay difficult. However we duly got into the bay at Clifton and Jo and John went ashore. I stayed behind just in case the anchor didn’t hold. Although quite what I’d have done if the boat had started drifting I am not too sure.

We had cleared into St Vincent and the Grenadines by lunchtime and decided to go for Tobago Cays and try to get a comfortable anchorage spot for the night. It is an amazing piece of nature to see the reefs stretching so far and forming natural barriers to the power of the ocean. The area is a conservation park. Grasses grow on the seabed which turtles love to eat. This means they come there to feed and you can go snorkelling and watch them. We didn’t anchor right on the reef boundary as the wind was very strong so opted to nestle round the corner. When we went swimming there we were visited by a large hawksbill turtle with only 3 legs. We wondered if it was one that had been released at the Old Hegg sanctuary. Anyway he was making pretty good speed for a 3 legged turtle and in the end I had to give up following him as he was going too fast.

Next morning we headed over to the area allotted to observing the turtles feeding.
We spent an hour watching them chew away at the grasses on the seabed. There were both hawksbills and greenbacks. You can actually hear them chewing and chomping away. There was quite a few shoals of fish as well so all in all it was just terrific. We also saw iguana on the shore. One was either chasing the other away or was trying to persuade it to join him/her in some sort of dalliance. It was really fascinating to see and they were totally unperturbed by the many onlookers who were on the beach at the time. We gave up snorkelling as it became quite busy with motor dinghies coming ashore and was quite hazardous.

Back on board we decide that we should sail along the edge of the Cays and head in to an island we had missed on the way down – Canouanan. It is partly owned by Raffles Hotel chain as the government agreed to allow them to have a huge part of the island to develop in exchange for housing for the local people. It is also where the Tamarind Hotel is (for those of you old enough to remember a movie called the Tamarind Seed with Julie Andrews and Omar Sharif) and it was once a movie location.

18th February

We spent an uncomfortable night on anchor as the swell picked up shortly after dark. Not a lot of sleep was had so we were all ready for an early start. As we were leaving a familiar catamaran called by. Linocat was heading to the Cays with their new lot of visitors. Think the lobster BBQ’s they get at the Cays means they have to keep going back for more.

We headed in the direction they had just come from – Bequia. We had a great sail over and at one point thought we would stop in Mustique. However wind and current meant that would be uncomfortable as a course so we opted for a lunch stop in Friendship Bay in Bequia. There was a huge surf due to wind over tide. There is also a reef to be negotiated as well as some big rocks but once in the Bay it is really rather lovely. At one point we thought we might stay the night but after the tide changed it became very roly poly and so we upted the anchor and headed to Admiralty Bay.

Yet again anchoring proved a challenge and it took several attempt before we got a decent hold. We all agreed that the Princess Margaret Beach at Admiralty Bay takes a bit of beating when it comes to gorgeous. We spent a couple of days just liming here.

20th February
Joanna was not keen to stop in St Vincent so John did the clearance in Bequia which meant we had a long sail over to St Lucia. We set of along with many other boats around 6.00 a.m. The swell was negligable which was a real bonus as we had both a head wind and tide to deal with. We managed 6+ knots motor sailing but it meant the trip was going to take a while. The sea got a bit rough at the north of St Vincent as it usually does but then we had a great sail, an exhilarating close fetch across the strait in to the Pitons. Jo had a spell on the helm and coped really well. She has gotten the hang of quite a lot of things around the boat and seems to have really enjoyed herself.

We wanted to moor under the Pitons for the night but the bay was very busy so we went round the corner to Anse Chastenet to a lovely little beach/bay and managed to get a mooring bouy. Unfortunately, once again, after dark the swell came in to the bay and we spent another sleepless night rocking and rolling (well it was Saturday).

21st February
Next morning we quickly dropped the lines and moved on to Anse Couchon. The swell was much less here and so after getting a good bite with the anchor we stayed there for brekkie and a swim. Would have stayed longer if the party catamarans hadn’t started arriving and offloading masses of folk. Peace shattered we upped anchor and headed to Marigot Bay. Jo hadn’t really taken it in when we were leaving St Lucia as she had been jetlagged. So we stayed overnight and took her to some of the places we like to go to there. Unfortunately Sunday night was Karaoke night and we had to listen to the most awful renditions of song which were completely unrecognisable till after 2.00 a.m.

22nd February

Today we have sailed up and spent a little time on anchor at Pigeon Island where we were treated to steel bands and live music coming from Sandals resort. Talk about having your peace shattered. Tonight as I type this up we are again being assailed by Karaoke from a nearby bar in Rodney Bay marina. Why is it people think they sing well at these things. This lot are as bad as the ones at Marigot were!!!!

We have been out for a farewell supper. Can’t believe the time has passed so quickly but it has been great and we shall sorely miss her.

23rd February

Organised ourselves to depart tomorrow and begin the trek to windward islands to meet up with Gareth and Katie as well as some other friends in Antigua in March.